Sale Price:
$6,499.00
Original Price:
$8,399.00
Please read the entire description below. There is a long story and build sheet with this AMC engine and the only way to get the entire picture is by studying everything below. We have all machining inhouse: crank grinding, crank journal welding, block and head surfacing, valve/seat/guide machines, cylinder bore, cylinder hone, rod cap grinder, rod cap resizing machine, and balancing. This is not a simple rebuild with new parts - this engine has been blueprinted, measured, and built like a custom race car power plant.
BACKGROUND: The pictures you see are from the engine you will receive minus the following which is not included: engine mounts, exhaust manifolds; fan and fan clutch, everything else shown is included. I take great care in my engines and the ones I build for customers or myself do not see anything spared - these details are below. The most important part of these engines, the cam, has been reground on a seasoned stock AMC blank - we used the same exact and durable cam that AMC made and had it reground for: low RPM torque and quick starting (strong vacuum signal and starting compression). The most important part of these engines, the cam, has been broken in. Purchasing any flat tappet engine (AMC or other) that hasn't had the camshaft broken in means that you will be doing the break in run and hoping the engine survives...buying this engine means the worst part is over. You simply plug this engine into your chassis, tune, and go. The best practice when breaking in an AMC engine involves setting the timing at top dead center cylinder 1 and filling the carburetor with fuel before starting...this allows the engine to instantly start and come up to speed for break in. This is what we did and no tuning at all - when you get the engine you will want to use a timing light and set timing as well as connect the vacuum advance on the distributor (this was not plumbed up for the break in because again the goal is to get the engine on and running at 2000 RPM as fast as possible and not wear down cam lobes by cranking on the starter). The carburetor was an old Holley 600 with zero tuning and only used to get the cam broken in. The carburetor is not included but I would suggest getting a Holley 600 remanufactured directly through Holley on eBay (they have an eBay store...if you go offroad it is hard to beat the Offroad Avenger). These carburetors will bolt on and immediately be really close in tuning.
OBJECTIVE: The goal with this engine build was to make AMC 360 torque without the fuel consumption of the 360 which can be difficult to keep up with on some Jeeps and AMC cars with smaller fuel tanks. This goal has been met - with the advance that is on the custom cam (see cam card picture) you will have big torque starting down in the low RPM's...no need to rev high to go fast or turn big tires.
BLOCK/CRANK/RODS/PISTONS: I hunt for the best parts before committing anything to the build. The block came from a 78 CJ7 and thoroughly checked. It was completely washed and cleaned before machine work. The block was bored .030 over which brings the displacement from 304 to approximately 310 cubic inches. Finding the crankshaft took time as I wanted a crankshaft that measured perfect and round without an undersize grind...I found a perfect crank that required no grinding...it polished like a gem...the crankshaft on this engine is STD/STD on the mains and rods (please see the picture of the crank after polishing). Crank runout was 0.0001 which is actually difficult to measure. Oil clearance checked on every bearing. All oiling ports and passages checked and cleaned to ensure proper flow - no under intake oil line was added nor is needed. Pistons are cast which give you nice quite power and quite forgiving on low octane fuel or Jeep or heavy use. Hastings pistons rings with plasma-moly faced top rings, phosphate-coated second rings, and an iron oil ring. The finish is Fleet Red which gets us as close as we can find to the factory 78 CJ red. It is Seymour MRO paint which is durable - that said the paint is not show quality and has flaws but seals everything in well. There are rough areas in the factory AMC casting that look like dirt painted over - it is just a rough spot in the cast iron.
BEARINGS: all bearings were replaced with premium bearings. Cam bearings were replaced and oriented correctly for proper oil flow and pressure that reaches beyond the camshaft.
HEADS/CAM: the stock 304 heads were shot blasted and cleaned fully before machining. All valves were replaced not reground. All guides were reamed and bronze lined. Valve to guide clearance is 0.0010-0.0015. 3 angles were cut into valve seats instead of stock single angle - this gives a smooth and less obstructed flow path and better valve sealing. The new valves were lapped in. All valve stem seals replaced with premium grade. The cam is a custom grind on the stock AMC cam blank. This means you are running on a known and seasoned cam which is made of high quality steel that could be found 50 years ago All lifters were replaced with Johnson Hi-Lift lifters - these are the only lifters I know of that are still made in the USA and actually have the proper surface to last a lifetime. All pushrods replaced with Melling made in USA. All rockers, pivots, and bridges replaced with Melling made in USA. Each lifter bore was measured and lightly honed - all lifters were first hand spun in the lifter bores to ensure no jam on first start up. Heads only needed 0.005 milling to square them up. This brings chamber volume on the heads to 57.9cc. Head gaskets have .039 compressed thickness. Because this engine is designed to create big torque at lower RPM we were able to run stock valve springs.
INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: Aftermarket clone of Edelbrock 2131 non-egr intake manifold. The intake was installed with an OEM AMC PCV baffle pan attached to the bottom side of the manifold (as original). The intake manifold was not installed with castle wall gaskets (these eventually leak) and instead installed with the walls sealed with 3/8" bead of gasket silicone. There is no thermostat currently installed so there would be constant water flow through break-in. You will install your preference of thermostat when you receive the engine - I suggest going 180 degrees so by the time the thermostat opens your engine balances at 190 degrees.
BALANCING: engine rotating assembly is balanced to run with the stock 304 flywheel. The flywheel has been reground and is ready to accept your new clutch.
Oil Pump/Timing Cover: Oil pump was rebuilt, measured, lapped, and remeasured until fully blueprinted. Oil was primed through the engine for at least 5 minutes. Every lifter pumped up with even oil flow through each rocker (important for durability). The water pump is new. The timing set is brand new USA made and all oil holes and paths checked, worked, and confirmed flowing - this not only ensures proper oil pressure but also saves your distributor gears (AMC ORIGINAL GEAR ON CAM AND DISTRIBUTOR). I installed stock studs into the water pump for a stock fan and fan clutch. This engine will use the factory 1978 AMC V8 oil filter. There is a fuel pump block off plate installed - we ran the engine with a small electric fuel pump - a factory fuel pump in box is included if you elect to run a mechanical fuel pump.
ASSEMBLY LUBRICATION: various lubricants are required for each part of the engine build. Proper cam paste was used on the cam (you can see the cam in the block covered in paste), proper assembly lubes used on all other parts. There is no 1 size fits all assembly lube and this is why this engine required 4 different assembly lubricants.
IGNITION: GM HEI with original AMC gear on distributor as well as on the cam. The distributor was checked for fit on the timing cover to ensure it is not bottoming out (this can quickly destroy the cam drive gear). The GM HEI is basic and powerful. Unlike the AMC ignition, this setup sees 12V at start up and full 14.4V running. The best way to power this distributor is a 10 gauge wire to the + terminal on the cap. This wire should be fed by a relay that is triggered by the ignition turning on. A relay installation will give you maximum power at all times. The distributor was simply set to start on first turn of the key for break in - after installing the engine in your AMC or Jeep you will then need to use a timing light to set timing. When it is time to do a tune up you will get a cap, rotor, coil, ignition module from any Chevrolet with a V8 HEI such as a 1983 C10 V8. You may choose to experiment with different high performance HEI coils and ignition modules too. New NGK spark plugs are installed and gapped to 0.045 to best take advantage of the added ignition performance. We used high quality USA plug wires.
WHAT YOU GET: on the pallet will be the engine you see from intake manifold to oil pan, pulleys back to flywheel. You will not receive the carburetor, bellhousing, starter, motor mount brackets, fan and clutch, or exhaust manifolds. I will leave the intake cover/lift-plate to help you safely install the engine. If you are shopping for a carburetor for break-in I recommend a basic 600cfm Holley - you can even purchase them remanufactured directly from Holley on their site and on eBay for a really good price.
AFTER SALE: This engine will arrive ready for you to install and will require some of your stock parts to install. With that said you are the caretaker once it arrives. After break-in there were exactly ZERO leaks but as with anything restored it is possible for a leak or other defect to show its head in the future. Things like a freeze plug leaking or oil leak from a seal will be something that you will have to fix and not covered by any warranty. These are things that can happen on a new engine - freeze plugs can weep for a period then stop after some running - seals could weep and sweat but eventually stop - or one of those things could need a replacement - again this is something that you would have to repair and not covered by any warranty. I will ship with oil drained - you will need 5 quarts of Lucas break-in oil for the next 200 miles (remember the cam is broken in but the rings break in properly by having a load on the them). During this period you will drive without lugging the engine and without extended idling - RPM should be reasonably varied. After this period you will need another new oil filter and 5 quarts of a high zinc oil such as Lucas Hot-Rod (you cannot use break-in oil any longer). Doing this will keep your engine happy and living a long life. Annually change the coolant with regular green 50/50. There has been much attention to detail and only premium parts used in this engine - you do not have a warranty on this purchase because the rest of this engines life and durability is dependent on you, the buyer, to have proper installation, tuning, and maintenance. With the proper care this engine will give you fantastic performance and joy.
We can ship to you for a very low rate - we can get this to a Fastenal store or a local freight terminal for pickup. If you would like shipping please send zip code.
There is no core required and there is no core charge. This is sold outright without the need for you to send anything back.
Video below of the engine running at high idle to cool down after cam break-in. As you will notice there are no odd sounds or smoke from either muffler. The engine does not have any measurable blowby or any leaks after running in.
After Break-In Video: https://youtu.be/tpP_ebzvBdY
$6499.00 CALL/TEXT 240-44BUILD
Please read the entire description below. There is a long story and build sheet with this AMC engine and the only way to get the entire picture is by studying everything below. We have all machining inhouse: crank grinding, crank journal welding, block and head surfacing, valve/seat/guide machines, cylinder bore, cylinder hone, rod cap grinder, rod cap resizing machine, and balancing. This is not a simple rebuild with new parts - this engine has been blueprinted, measured, and built like a custom race car power plant.
BACKGROUND: The pictures you see are from the engine you will receive minus the following which is not included: engine mounts, exhaust manifolds; fan and fan clutch, everything else shown is included. I take great care in my engines and the ones I build for customers or myself do not see anything spared - these details are below. The most important part of these engines, the cam, has been reground on a seasoned stock AMC blank - we used the same exact and durable cam that AMC made and had it reground for: low RPM torque and quick starting (strong vacuum signal and starting compression). The most important part of these engines, the cam, has been broken in. Purchasing any flat tappet engine (AMC or other) that hasn't had the camshaft broken in means that you will be doing the break in run and hoping the engine survives...buying this engine means the worst part is over. You simply plug this engine into your chassis, tune, and go. The best practice when breaking in an AMC engine involves setting the timing at top dead center cylinder 1 and filling the carburetor with fuel before starting...this allows the engine to instantly start and come up to speed for break in. This is what we did and no tuning at all - when you get the engine you will want to use a timing light and set timing as well as connect the vacuum advance on the distributor (this was not plumbed up for the break in because again the goal is to get the engine on and running at 2000 RPM as fast as possible and not wear down cam lobes by cranking on the starter). The carburetor was an old Holley 600 with zero tuning and only used to get the cam broken in. The carburetor is not included but I would suggest getting a Holley 600 remanufactured directly through Holley on eBay (they have an eBay store...if you go offroad it is hard to beat the Offroad Avenger). These carburetors will bolt on and immediately be really close in tuning.
OBJECTIVE: The goal with this engine build was to make AMC 360 torque without the fuel consumption of the 360 which can be difficult to keep up with on some Jeeps and AMC cars with smaller fuel tanks. This goal has been met - with the advance that is on the custom cam (see cam card picture) you will have big torque starting down in the low RPM's...no need to rev high to go fast or turn big tires.
BLOCK/CRANK/RODS/PISTONS: I hunt for the best parts before committing anything to the build. The block came from a 78 CJ7 and thoroughly checked. It was completely washed and cleaned before machine work. The block was bored .030 over which brings the displacement from 304 to approximately 310 cubic inches. Finding the crankshaft took time as I wanted a crankshaft that measured perfect and round without an undersize grind...I found a perfect crank that required no grinding...it polished like a gem...the crankshaft on this engine is STD/STD on the mains and rods (please see the picture of the crank after polishing). Crank runout was 0.0001 which is actually difficult to measure. Oil clearance checked on every bearing. All oiling ports and passages checked and cleaned to ensure proper flow - no under intake oil line was added nor is needed. Pistons are cast which give you nice quite power and quite forgiving on low octane fuel or Jeep or heavy use. Hastings pistons rings with plasma-moly faced top rings, phosphate-coated second rings, and an iron oil ring. The finish is Fleet Red which gets us as close as we can find to the factory 78 CJ red. It is Seymour MRO paint which is durable - that said the paint is not show quality and has flaws but seals everything in well. There are rough areas in the factory AMC casting that look like dirt painted over - it is just a rough spot in the cast iron.
BEARINGS: all bearings were replaced with premium bearings. Cam bearings were replaced and oriented correctly for proper oil flow and pressure that reaches beyond the camshaft.
HEADS/CAM: the stock 304 heads were shot blasted and cleaned fully before machining. All valves were replaced not reground. All guides were reamed and bronze lined. Valve to guide clearance is 0.0010-0.0015. 3 angles were cut into valve seats instead of stock single angle - this gives a smooth and less obstructed flow path and better valve sealing. The new valves were lapped in. All valve stem seals replaced with premium grade. The cam is a custom grind on the stock AMC cam blank. This means you are running on a known and seasoned cam which is made of high quality steel that could be found 50 years ago All lifters were replaced with Johnson Hi-Lift lifters - these are the only lifters I know of that are still made in the USA and actually have the proper surface to last a lifetime. All pushrods replaced with Melling made in USA. All rockers, pivots, and bridges replaced with Melling made in USA. Each lifter bore was measured and lightly honed - all lifters were first hand spun in the lifter bores to ensure no jam on first start up. Heads only needed 0.005 milling to square them up. This brings chamber volume on the heads to 57.9cc. Head gaskets have .039 compressed thickness. Because this engine is designed to create big torque at lower RPM we were able to run stock valve springs.
INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: Aftermarket clone of Edelbrock 2131 non-egr intake manifold. The intake was installed with an OEM AMC PCV baffle pan attached to the bottom side of the manifold (as original). The intake manifold was not installed with castle wall gaskets (these eventually leak) and instead installed with the walls sealed with 3/8" bead of gasket silicone. There is no thermostat currently installed so there would be constant water flow through break-in. You will install your preference of thermostat when you receive the engine - I suggest going 180 degrees so by the time the thermostat opens your engine balances at 190 degrees.
BALANCING: engine rotating assembly is balanced to run with the stock 304 flywheel. The flywheel has been reground and is ready to accept your new clutch.
Oil Pump/Timing Cover: Oil pump was rebuilt, measured, lapped, and remeasured until fully blueprinted. Oil was primed through the engine for at least 5 minutes. Every lifter pumped up with even oil flow through each rocker (important for durability). The water pump is new. The timing set is brand new USA made and all oil holes and paths checked, worked, and confirmed flowing - this not only ensures proper oil pressure but also saves your distributor gears (AMC ORIGINAL GEAR ON CAM AND DISTRIBUTOR). I installed stock studs into the water pump for a stock fan and fan clutch. This engine will use the factory 1978 AMC V8 oil filter. There is a fuel pump block off plate installed - we ran the engine with a small electric fuel pump - a factory fuel pump in box is included if you elect to run a mechanical fuel pump.
ASSEMBLY LUBRICATION: various lubricants are required for each part of the engine build. Proper cam paste was used on the cam (you can see the cam in the block covered in paste), proper assembly lubes used on all other parts. There is no 1 size fits all assembly lube and this is why this engine required 4 different assembly lubricants.
IGNITION: GM HEI with original AMC gear on distributor as well as on the cam. The distributor was checked for fit on the timing cover to ensure it is not bottoming out (this can quickly destroy the cam drive gear). The GM HEI is basic and powerful. Unlike the AMC ignition, this setup sees 12V at start up and full 14.4V running. The best way to power this distributor is a 10 gauge wire to the + terminal on the cap. This wire should be fed by a relay that is triggered by the ignition turning on. A relay installation will give you maximum power at all times. The distributor was simply set to start on first turn of the key for break in - after installing the engine in your AMC or Jeep you will then need to use a timing light to set timing. When it is time to do a tune up you will get a cap, rotor, coil, ignition module from any Chevrolet with a V8 HEI such as a 1983 C10 V8. You may choose to experiment with different high performance HEI coils and ignition modules too. New NGK spark plugs are installed and gapped to 0.045 to best take advantage of the added ignition performance. We used high quality USA plug wires.
WHAT YOU GET: on the pallet will be the engine you see from intake manifold to oil pan, pulleys back to flywheel. You will not receive the carburetor, bellhousing, starter, motor mount brackets, fan and clutch, or exhaust manifolds. I will leave the intake cover/lift-plate to help you safely install the engine. If you are shopping for a carburetor for break-in I recommend a basic 600cfm Holley - you can even purchase them remanufactured directly from Holley on their site and on eBay for a really good price.
AFTER SALE: This engine will arrive ready for you to install and will require some of your stock parts to install. With that said you are the caretaker once it arrives. After break-in there were exactly ZERO leaks but as with anything restored it is possible for a leak or other defect to show its head in the future. Things like a freeze plug leaking or oil leak from a seal will be something that you will have to fix and not covered by any warranty. These are things that can happen on a new engine - freeze plugs can weep for a period then stop after some running - seals could weep and sweat but eventually stop - or one of those things could need a replacement - again this is something that you would have to repair and not covered by any warranty. I will ship with oil drained - you will need 5 quarts of Lucas break-in oil for the next 200 miles (remember the cam is broken in but the rings break in properly by having a load on the them). During this period you will drive without lugging the engine and without extended idling - RPM should be reasonably varied. After this period you will need another new oil filter and 5 quarts of a high zinc oil such as Lucas Hot-Rod (you cannot use break-in oil any longer). Doing this will keep your engine happy and living a long life. Annually change the coolant with regular green 50/50. There has been much attention to detail and only premium parts used in this engine - you do not have a warranty on this purchase because the rest of this engines life and durability is dependent on you, the buyer, to have proper installation, tuning, and maintenance. With the proper care this engine will give you fantastic performance and joy.
We can ship to you for a very low rate - we can get this to a Fastenal store or a local freight terminal for pickup. If you would like shipping please send zip code.
There is no core required and there is no core charge. This is sold outright without the need for you to send anything back.
Video below of the engine running at high idle to cool down after cam break-in. As you will notice there are no odd sounds or smoke from either muffler. The engine does not have any measurable blowby or any leaks after running in.
After Break-In Video: https://youtu.be/tpP_ebzvBdY
$6499.00 CALL/TEXT 240-44BUILD
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